What's That Noise? - How to Find the Annoying Noises on Your Bike...

We've all been there; Bike not quite so quiet as it used to be? Peaceful bike riding, not quite so peaceful anymore? Here are my top tips for identifying which bit of your bike is trying to give you a mechanical cry for help.

Much like our other loved family members, bikes try to tell you when something is wrong or when they are getting worn out. They usually rattle, click, knock or tap - just to get your attention. Take this hint, pay it some attention or get it serviced.

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Step 1 - Isolate the noise

Listen up whilst you are riding or get a ride mate to listen as you ride along. How often does the noise happen;

Each pedal revolution?

Each wheel revolution?

Each turn of the cranks?

Sat in the saddle?

Out of the Saddle?

Each turn of the handlebars?

This should narrow down the potential culprit. Could it be one of these...

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Headset / Stem

Rattles, knocks and squeaks from the front of your bike could well be Headset or Stem related. Poorly adjusted headsets can rattle (if loose) or squeak (if tight). This can also be dangerous, especially if the compression and clamp bolts have worked loose and the stem is loose on the steerer.

Drivetrain

Front and rear derailleurs are often the guilty party when it comes to an unwanted soundtrack on your nice, quiet ride. The clicking noise is usually from gears not adjusted correctly. Cable stretch or general wear on components can be the cause, the cable adjuster can sometimes provide the solution. If parts are worn though, it is better to replace them before they deteriorate further causing wear to other components.

Wheels / Brakes

Keeping certain parts of your bike clean can save you money in the long run. That scraping noise when you brake, is your bike trying to tell you to clean your wheel rims or brake rotors. Braking surfaces tend to wear quicker than other parts, especially when brakes are being used a lot and in adverse conditions.. Keeping braking surfaces clean will result in a longer life for the wheel. Make sure your brake blocks or disc pad surfaces are clean. Small stones, gravel, grit, glass and fragments of metal can get lodged into brake blocks & disc pads and gradually grind away the rim or disc rotor.

Chain

Bike chains can squeak when they get too dry or dusty, the dry squeaking chain is likely to be wearing excessively and wasting your power too. The constant contact between the chain and cassette needs a little maintenance upkeep. Keeping your bike’s chain running smoothly is as simple as degreasing / cleaning and applying a little lubrication. Each cassette should last two chains if they are kept clean and lightly lubricated. Try not to make the mistake of just adding more and more lubrication. Clean, lubricated chains reduce wear on chainrings and derailleur jockey wheels too.

Don't Ignore Creaking

Creaking noises should really be looked into. Cracks or breakages can develop through regular riding. The creaking noise could be two sides of the cracked component rubbing against each other. While replacing a noisy bottom bracket a few years ago, I found a crack running around the base of the frame’s seat tube – turns out the creaking i assumed was the bottom bracket was a crack in the frame. If in doubt, check it out.

Sit Quiet

The creaking noise from your seat post can be down to the way it was fitted. Once you have your bike's seat post at the right height, it stays in the same position. This makes it vital to apply either grease (metal frame / post) or carbon paste (carbon frame / post) before fitting. It’s also worth removing, re applying and refitting every once in a while, anyone who has struggled to remove a stuck seat post probably does this rather than have to do it again.

Chased by a Pig?

The squeaking from the back end of your bike is more likely to be the jockey wheels in your rear derailleur than a chasing pig. Spinning at a few hundred rpm for hours-on-end and adverse weather conditions can eventually dry out the lubrication in the jockey wheels. Cleaning and re-lubricating the jockey wheels should solve the problem, replacing worn jockey wheels is relatively cheap and easy.

Inside the Frame?

Internally routed cables can rattle inside the frame, particularly if cables are cut too long. Use the correct cable housing for your frame and make sure guide stops are in place, these can come loose and rattle.

Noisy Feet?

Struggling to find the source of a persistent rattle or squeak? Check the bolts attaching cleats are tight, they can work loose over time. Worn pedals can also squeak against cleats.

Still Hearing It?

Can't Pinpoint the Noise? Try these regular culprits;

• Loose headset (rattling front end)

• Loose cassette lock-ring (rattling cassette / rear drive train)

• Gears out of sync’ (clicking – rear of drive train)

• Dry chain – (squeaking from drive train)

• Dry jockey wheels – (squeaking rear of drive train)

• Brake pads – (squeaking from front or rear brakes)

• Worn Bottom Bracket – (clunk / knock / click from the front of the drive train)

• Cables – (rattling over rougher surfaces)

• Loose Valves – (rattling from the wheels – particularly deep section wheels)

• Wheels not true or not correctly seated in the drop out – (catching sound each wheel revolution)

• Loose Bottle Cage – (rattling noise from the frame)

If you still can't find the problem, book in for a service - remember bikes should be quiet!